I see you from a distance. You turn your sun-browned face toward the breeze from the bay and narrow your eyes slightly beneath long black lashes. I was introduced to you as a passionate collector of "grand architectural styles," and for a moment you seem so modern, so tall and fashionable—Dubai?—but no, I shift my gaze just a little to the right and see it—what is this, Rio?—slums, slums, slums.
—Oh, that? Well, I just haven’t had time to rebuild it yet!
And don’t you dare joke about me being late or on Indian time—it's getting much better!
Come on, I’ll show you better places—my grandfather’s, my great-grandfather's, and my great-great-great-great's!
You laugh at my "Is it far to walk?"—walking isn’t really a thing here, and there’s nowhere to walk anyway. Everything is done by car, with a driver, in which there is always an Ice Age, because God forbid we might sweat!
We drive past an enormous square. At its center stands something majestic, domed like Sir Christopher Wren’s London and arched like the Spanish Alhambra.
—What do you mean, an abbey? It’s a railway station! My great-grandfather worked on the project!
And next to it—no, not a cathedral, just the post office.
You find it ironic that the British Empire—which in its eighty-nine years of rule built all these "administrative hybrids"—was not only full of itself, but also deeply fascinated by the Mughal Muslim empire, whose rulers fled all the way from Uzbekistan to conquer your land for two centuries. Hence the Alhambra echoes.
We pass an enormous, monstrously neglected building, and you explain that the new rental law was unprofitable for the owners, so in protest they stopped caring for it long ago—and the monsoon spares no one. Luckily, your grandfather managed to sell his apartment here in time.
Around the corner it suddenly feels like Rome, like Madrid—a stark white building with sculpted muses on the roof—hello, Vatican and Bernini!—with medallions, urns, columns. Neoclassicism!
And inside—unexpectedly again—Deutsche Bank. Your father works here.
A Zoroastrian temple—escaped from Iran, bringing Sumerian bulls along—was warmly received by your great-great-great, and now lives large and prosperous.
And finally, Mani Bhavan—a house that draws you in with its coolness, colonial in style, from which Gandhi’s civil disobedience began the end of all colonial rule.
Bombay-Mumbai-Mumbai, you’ve completely spun me around in your kaleidoscope. But in all this accumulation, I suddenly understand you, hear you with my whole heart—you're not a collector at all. You are simply incredibly open and kind to everyone seeking protection and a better life. You are a little naïve and believe that everyone who comes will be just as hardworking and will learn from you to mind their own business.
You are ready to learn, to work hard, and to protest everything you find unjust.
You are an optimist.
May everything work out for you.